Alabaster

Alabaster is not quarried from the mountain like many other types of rock (e.g. marble), but is found in smaller and larger nodules in the earth. Particularly large nodules are rare and correspondingly valuable. Depending on its origin, alabaster comes in different colours, e.g. classic transparent white, but also blue, caramel, light yellow or pink. The colouring results either from the formation itself or from the environment in which the alabaster nodules are stored. In the case of pink-orange to reddish nodules, for example, iron oxide penetrates the stone from the outside.

Alabaster is of lesser hardness than  marble (hardness 3 – 4) and usually of greater hardness than soapstone (hardness 1). Fine hairline cracks, which mostly do not affect the working of the stone, and grains are characteristic. Because of its transparency, alabaster is well suited for simple or abstract forms. Alabaster is not weather-resistant and should therefore not be used for sculptures that stand outdoors or are often exposed to water.

Tool for working alabaster

Alabaster is one of the soft stones that you can work very well with hand tools such as Forged steel chisels and rasps can be worked. For hammering we recommend wooden mallets . When choosing chisels, make sure accordingly that they have a mallet head. You can also model alabaster very well with a special chisel shape, namely the gouge, which is used like a carving iron for wood. Point chisels, on the other hand, should not be used, as the blow often goes much deeper without being noticed immediately, which shows up in unsightly bruises after polishing. Claw chisels and flat irons or lettering chisels are much more suitable. Grinding you can grind alabaster particularly well with sanding grids, but also with sandpaper and diamond sanding pads. Thinly applied stone wax gives alabaster a special shine and has a colour-deepening effect. Lithofin polish cream gives transparent alabaster a lot of shine and protects against yellowing.